Nimmo and Naire drove the camper from Ipswich to us in Darwin. We met Nimmo on our usual 24 hour whirlwind visit to town. (Naire had to fly home suddenly to see her mum). In that 24 hours we flew in from Nguiu, repacked everything from the Pelican cases and shed into the van and the pelican cases, shipped the cases back home, cleaned out the shed, bought a month's supplies including food and then had a BBQ for all our Darwin friends. We washed clothes and packed the van, slept and drove away.
On the weekend, we headed over to Borroloola for what turned out to be, pretty special time. It's a pretty big drive for two days with millions of corrugations and dozens of creek crossings. Ironically, the first is across the Wilton River (pictured above). At least this one had a concrete causeway. Most didn't.
It was pretty amazing as a drive cause the books we were given were all about the country through which we were driving. It certainly added much significance and it is almost impossible to describe how differently you see the country when you are told the Indigenous stories. They really are complex. The songlines, clan group lines and country define different maps of the land. One book we were given gives a glimpse into that complexity, describes the map drawing projects from Ngukurr and the art which tells some of the story. The Laws around story telling, land ownership, even permitted bloodlines are really very deeply woven into the culture and connected to land. So we saw the country really differently as we passed through Marranbala country and the edge of Alawa land that we had spent much time in. Tourists who visit this land get such a diminished view of it, it is pretty not worth the effort for them.
As an aside, before I continue this story, I must mention we had to drive 60 K around to the other side of the river at Ngukurr. Google maps and our Shaun would have had us crossing the Roper River at a very wide crocodile invested spot. I got lost trying to follow a map but Paul seemed to know where he was. We had to retreat back to the Roper River crossing and while there decided to visit the Roper River store. This may be hard to believe but this shed was the best of the shops we had seen since Katherine two weeks ago. Vegemite is $6.50. We bought a loaf of bread.
Loved the sign near Roper Bar crossing. Its' amazing when on the road for so long, how much you look forward to seeing a sign. It was nice to know we were on the right track. And good to know Borooloola was in front of us and not behind us.
While in Ngukurr we had met a teacher who told us about an important lagoon, Lomarieum Lagoon. It was featured in our book as a special place and we had begun to understand how it was the centre of some intersecting songlines and a place where people from different tribes could meet. It was a happy ceremony place but also part of the creation story of Arnhem Land which begins in part, at Injalak Hill at Oenpelli. This teacher Pat, who was once married to alocal man, invited us to meet her at the Lagoon with some of the local Indigenous elders. As it turned out they were the custodians of the Marranbala Country through which we were driving.
So we ended up all sitting on the ground learning much more than we ever anticipated. The two local men signed our book and talked to us about the extent of the Marranbala Country, amongst other things. Both were also artists and gave us an insight into painting now and long ago and also told us about what could not be told through painting and how this was enforced.
Donald went off for a while to find some wire (goodness knows where) and came back and made a spear and a womera to throw the spear. He then gave young Isacc who was with Pat for the day, a lesson in throwing it. He also showed us how to scare crocodile when you want to retrieve lilly bulbs - not something we wanted to copy. (Later that night we heard a gigantic crocodile jaw snap right where he was "demonstrating" and very near our camp.)
Donald went off for a while to find some wire (goodness knows where) and came back and made a spear and a womera to throw the spear. He then gave young Isacc who was with Pat for the day, a lesson in throwing it. He also showed us how to scare crocodile when you want to retrieve lilly bulbs - not something we wanted to copy. (Later that night we heard a gigantic crocodile jaw snap right where he was "demonstrating" and very near our camp.)
Donald gave Paul and I permission to stay on his land and pass through his country. So we made a great camp beside Lomarieum lagoon which is the most amazing lagoon I have seen. No wonder it is a special place. Not sure I will hang up our bones there but. Might use the Burial poles we have sent home instead.
Paul is practicing for his retirement next week. Our new books are on the table. Sunset was remarkable and the variety of bird life was pretty stunning. See the mountains of Ngukurr in the background.
Next morning we drove through the Nathan River Road and checked out some of the camping and fishing shots along the way - they were all quite familiar now.
The rivers here are just stunning and it was very hard to keep driving. We did stop here at Towns River and have a fish. Paul caught a barra for lunch. It was pretty neat eating fish caught only 15 minutes before. We actually could nor believe we had the places to ourselves. The Nathan River Road is pretty bad and no caravans would make it. 4WD campers and trailers were camped in some spots but the place was pretty empty. The road gave us a bit of grief. Lost the bolt to the step somewhere and got a few rattles, but it was not too bad. The corregates made slosh out of any soft veges we had. The extended mirrors bounced all over the place. the truck looks like it went through a dust storm.
After our Barra lunch we drove on for over 100K to arrive at the ranger station in the middle of Limen National Park. We found Butterfly Springs, which had a waterfall feeding into a great lagoon which we could swim in. I waited till a goanna which was having a swim had safely retreated. There was again, no-one around, so we were able to swim in the nic. Butterfly George and Butterfly Springs have both been good places for a private swim....
The rock formations here were amazing. We were told there were caves with paintings in them there, but we did not stay over night, so could not explore. We really must come back and explore more. Be glad to stop work and writing reports so we can enjoy more of the country.
We called into the Southern Lost City for a cuppa. Only 5 K off the road. Well we got bogged in the sand and had to dig our way in. A poo shovel and the dustpan are no replacement for a proper shovel. It was not too bad as the sand was dry, loose and very easy to shift. Now Paul knows the clearance on the Hilux.....
So we arrived at Borroloola at last, very tired. Lucky Betty the caravan park manager took pity on us and fed us dinner which was a treat. We are still at Borroloola as I write this.
It's been a great workshop. The art centre closes at 4.00pm each day and so we have had an early mark to go fishing. We have found the river crossing is the best place. I managed to catch a barra - a beauty. We now have some barra meals in the freezer, as well as enjoying a huge meal of barra just after I caught it. Didn't even change out of the work gear to go fishing. Unlikely garb!
So now we head out tomorrow to Robinson River and camp for a week along the way. We have been given local permission for a few spots that will be deserted, cause people need permission to be there, so expect to have a nice quiet week. We will turn up at Robinson River Community next Monday and run two days of workshops. That will be our last one! Yahoo! We are actually officially finished now but we volunteered to do one more.
Then we head off to Townsville via Lawn Hill George. So we are off air until late next week. no phone or internet at Robinson River, even in the community. So much for the promise of phones and Internet for all Australians.... Hope no-one needs us. Stay safe, healthy and happy. We'll fill you in on all the fish next time.
Next morning we drove through the Nathan River Road and checked out some of the camping and fishing shots along the way - they were all quite familiar now.
The rivers here are just stunning and it was very hard to keep driving. We did stop here at Towns River and have a fish. Paul caught a barra for lunch. It was pretty neat eating fish caught only 15 minutes before. We actually could nor believe we had the places to ourselves. The Nathan River Road is pretty bad and no caravans would make it. 4WD campers and trailers were camped in some spots but the place was pretty empty. The road gave us a bit of grief. Lost the bolt to the step somewhere and got a few rattles, but it was not too bad. The corregates made slosh out of any soft veges we had. The extended mirrors bounced all over the place. the truck looks like it went through a dust storm.
After our Barra lunch we drove on for over 100K to arrive at the ranger station in the middle of Limen National Park. We found Butterfly Springs, which had a waterfall feeding into a great lagoon which we could swim in. I waited till a goanna which was having a swim had safely retreated. There was again, no-one around, so we were able to swim in the nic. Butterfly George and Butterfly Springs have both been good places for a private swim....
The rock formations here were amazing. We were told there were caves with paintings in them there, but we did not stay over night, so could not explore. We really must come back and explore more. Be glad to stop work and writing reports so we can enjoy more of the country.
We called into the Southern Lost City for a cuppa. Only 5 K off the road. Well we got bogged in the sand and had to dig our way in. A poo shovel and the dustpan are no replacement for a proper shovel. It was not too bad as the sand was dry, loose and very easy to shift. Now Paul knows the clearance on the Hilux.....
So we arrived at Borroloola at last, very tired. Lucky Betty the caravan park manager took pity on us and fed us dinner which was a treat. We are still at Borroloola as I write this.
It's been a great workshop. The art centre closes at 4.00pm each day and so we have had an early mark to go fishing. We have found the river crossing is the best place. I managed to catch a barra - a beauty. We now have some barra meals in the freezer, as well as enjoying a huge meal of barra just after I caught it. Didn't even change out of the work gear to go fishing. Unlikely garb!
So now we head out tomorrow to Robinson River and camp for a week along the way. We have been given local permission for a few spots that will be deserted, cause people need permission to be there, so expect to have a nice quiet week. We will turn up at Robinson River Community next Monday and run two days of workshops. That will be our last one! Yahoo! We are actually officially finished now but we volunteered to do one more.Then we head off to Townsville via Lawn Hill George. So we are off air until late next week. no phone or internet at Robinson River, even in the community. So much for the promise of phones and Internet for all Australians.... Hope no-one needs us. Stay safe, healthy and happy. We'll fill you in on all the fish next time.
No comments:
Post a Comment